Day  10 / 16            Thursday Aug 31.

Longtown to Hamilton.

Distance:        126. (Km) 

Time:  7:05

Average Speed:          17.8 (Km/ hr) 

Ascent:               988 (m). 

Heart Rate:          110  (beats / min). 

Cumulative Distance:           1015 (km) 

Cumulative Ascent :           9380 (m) 

Punctures so far : 0

Another long day and I’ve just gone through the 1000km mark. 

The first 100km today was just getting from A to B. The last part was more zig-zag through towns on the outer edge of Glasgow.

The day started out chilly (as expected at 6:30) but layers were off by 40km and remained sunny and just a gentle breeze for the rest of the ride.

Pulling out of Longtown I crossed over the River Esk and then passed the mighty sheep mart on my left. It was in that mart that the first diagnosis of the Foot and Mouth epidemic was made.

A special moment after 5 km when I crossed over the border into Scotland and was welcomed. There is a fine lay-by for coaches at that point but I had it all to myself. At the same point I was now entering into Dumfries and Galloway.

Another few km and I was in Gretna Green a place made famous for clandestine marriages for people from England. Till 1940 people under 21 needed parental consent to marry; not so across the border. And almost anyone had the authority to officiate. Most marriages were solemnised by the local blacksmith at the anvil. A big tourist attraction now. I was there before the crowds.

Then I had a long stretch on the Old Road running almost parallel to the New A74. Later it becomes the M74 and the noise was with me till almost the end. Along here I passed through Kirkpatrick Fleming , Ecclefechan and very near to Lockerbie where in 1988 a Pan Am flight crashed after a terrorist bomb killing 259 and 11 on the ground.

Lovely soft rolling hills all along here and plenty of agricultural traffic on the road. Such a pleasant scene except for the continuous drone of traffic.

Sun was warming up now on my right and casting shadows.

Between Moffat and Beattock I came across the most intriguing sculpture ever on the quiet cycle track. Quite clearly it had something to do with cycling and Toulouse. I asked 3 locals around that area what it was all about. They themselves (nor anybody in the village) hadn’t an idea. Googling it this evening I’m still no wiser. Some articles claim it has something to do with Toulouse Lautrec who apparently cycled around here; others claim it marks the starting point of a cycle undertaken by locals from here to Toulouse and yet others thinks it refers to the contractors ,Toulouse, who were involved in the upgrading of the A74 in this area.

I knew that around 55km the main ascent of the day would occur. It was gradual enough and spread over 17km. I was now approaching the Southern Uplands and I knew that have to get over or around them. Hillsides here were all in forestry of one stage or another. Whole hillsides had been shaved clear in parts and plenty of timber plants along the road. In places I thought I was cycling down through British Columbia again with the forestry and the purple fireweed.

I took quite a few breaks today and fortunate that I had brought rolls and bananas along. I hardly passed a shop in the first 100km. I had now passed into South Lanarkshire.

At 75 km I got my first glimpse of the river Clyde and it continually increased in size as we moved on together.

For a stretch of 14km my route drifted away from the now M74 and I enjoyed to peaceful silence and the vast landscape. And some joggers were of the same mind.

After passing Kirkmuirhill (as students were emerging from schools) I could see many high-rise buildings ahead and reckoned that. I was nearing some city,

I finally arrived in Hamilton a bit later than I expected due to some problems with the back brakes, they kept squealing for some reason. I think I have rectified the problem at this point. 

In my accommodation at 3:30 and now due a bit of a rest.

A good day with an opportunity to use the big ring a bit more often. And pleasant weather all the way.

Thank God for the health and thank God for the energy.

 Day  9 / 16            Tuesday.  Aug 29.

Kendal to Longtown 

Distance:        102. (Km) 

Time:      6:47

Average Speed:            15.1. (Km/ hr) 

Ascent:               1151. (m). 

Heart Rate:          103. (beats / min). 

Cumulative Distance:           889 (km) 

Cumulative Ascent :           8392. (m) 

Punctures so far : 0

A tough day today through a beautiful area with mixed weather.

Set out at sunrise, knowing the type of day that was ahead of me. Faced with some hilly streets at this early hour with Kendal still quiet below me.

Within 3km I was on the busier A591 and officially entered the Lakes National Park. The roadside cycle path brought me through the villages of Stavely and Ings. At this point the first band of rain crossed my path but didn’t last for long.

The road rose continually before me to 180m ASL and over the crest I was welcomed to the town of  Windermere which isn’t actually on the lakeside.

Beautiful morning light over Windermere on my left hand side. At 18km long it is the largest lake in England. It has 18 islands and folktale of a lake monster referred to as Bownessi (Bowless is the town on the lakeside)

I followed the River Rothay upstream along secluded roads and cycle trails.

Next came the much smaller lake, Rydal Water. William Wordsworth lived here in Rydal for 37 years just up aside road off my route. The lake was on my left all the way and looking calm and peaceful.

Next in line came Grassmere as I still cycled along the main thoroughfare, the A591.

Another climb faced me, the second of the five Garmin regarded as majors today. In fact it wasn’t the worst of the day and in time the crest appeared, and a bit of morning sunshine. Great views all around up here.

Once over the top Thirlmere appeared ahead. Thirlmere is actually a reservoir for Manchester. My planned route was to cycle up the western side of this lake on paved and unpaved tracks. But in recent months I had read of issues with free- movement along here. I’d hoped a bike could get through but a sign left me in no doubt. So it was a matter of returning to the A591 and pedal on.

At the top of Thirlmere (42km) I pulled in for morning break and shelter from another bank of mist passing over. A young man, Dan, who had been out for a mountain run came over and engaged. His girlfriend was finishing her 5-day hiking trek over the fells today. Had a great chat till rain passed.

Now I moved away from the lakes and headed north eastwards. I was on busy A66 for a while but then hit off to the left into ‘wild’ country well serviced with paved trails. 

Black clouds kept approaching from the west but sunshine prevailed as I moved on, up and down, on a remote road seeing only sheep and other touring cyclists.

By 70km I was feeling peckish again and availed of a wayside bus shelter for my repast. Even though I was generally descending from here it had its share of sharp rises.

After passing through Dalston I hit the outer limits of Carlisle where I cycled around by its castle originally built in 1092.

Moving through Carlisle was straightforward enough with a good grid of cycle paths. For the previous few hours we had a black sky but brilliant warm sunshine. Knew that clouds would overcome at some stage. Just as I was negotiating the very busy Kingstown Interchange down it poured. I had to hop up on one of the traffic islands and get wet-gear on. All passed off within another 5km.

I took a quiet side-road for the approach to Longtown and came by Arthurets Church dedicated to St Michael and All the Angels.

Relieved I was to turn into Main St Longtown and spot my accommodation, The Sycamore Tree.

It had been a tough tough day and glad I had reached my destination.

Tomorrow is my Rest Day to recover from the exertions of the last 9 days. 7more to go.

So, there’ll be nod Blog post tomorrow. All will resume on Thursday.

Thank God for the health and thank God for the energy.

 Day  8 / 16          Monday Aug 28.

Wigan to Kendal

Distance:        113. (Km) 

Time:  7:10

Average Speed:          15.8. (Km/ hr) 

Ascent:               842.  (m). 

Heart Rate:          81.  (beats / min). 

Cumulative Distance:           787. (km) 

Cumulative Ascent :           7241. (m) 

Punctures so far : 0

Our shortly after sunrise this morning to get a good run at the day. Being a Bank Holiday Monday streets were totally deserted and nobody moving yet. The initial 10km had a slight rise but not too demanding.

I had slept in Cheshire but during those early kms I crossed the line into Lancashire. Moving on!

After 10km I dropped onto the path along by the Leeds Liverpool Canal. Had a peaceful 7km along its bank. In places the path got very narrow resulting in nettle stings to the legs. I had puddles like yesterday and parts of it were rough sharp gravel. We dealt with it. Both of us have been across terrain much rougher than that.

 It is a Bank Holiday Monday over here but some construction workers have to keep the show on the road. 

Some new constructions on the far bank, to me, seem to be too close to the water level….a water level patio! Along these canals is a pleasant cycle touring experience. Possibly not the best for a Sunday morning energetic ride. Along here I remarked to myself that dogs don’t seem to be a big thing up here….very few dog walkers.

No sooner was I off the canal trail but I was into Cuerden Valley Park and 8km along its lovely smooth paths. And I had to revise my previous dog remark. Dog after dog after dog. But all kindly restrained as I passed. Not a bark to be heard.

At 28km the high-rise of Preston appeared above the trees. Still only 8:30. Through a beautiful park and into the centre. 

On one quiet street my eye was caught by (what I thought) was a bin knocked over by the side of the street. In fact it was a sculpture of a thread reel and needle erected to mark the textile heritage of Preston, at the heart of the Industrial Revolution. 

And in the centre a large hoarding to the same effect. Both sections of the large market area around the Market Hall were to be idle for today.

In one of the suburbs of Preston I passed the mosque serving the immigrant population. In the 1950’s Preston experienced a large influx of Commonwealth (esp Asian and Caribbean) immigrants.

I departed Preston through Moor Park containing many football pitches marked out. And across to my right appeared Deepdale Stadium, home of Preston North End, one of the founder members of the English Football League and first winners in 1888.

Also in Moor Park a circus tent was all set up for a performance later in the day.

I made my first stop at a petrol station at 40km for a top-up. I had really enjoyed the ride so far ( and all of the day) as one of the nicest cycle-touring rides I’ve had….the variety of terrain and surroundings. Even when I was directed onto roads there was a marked cycle-lane in most cases.

The town off Garstang has its own claim to fame. And the town featured many yard-sales in full swing. And for miles and miles along here I crossing the M6 over and back.

Shortly after the flower bedecked village of Scorton as I crested a sharp hill I met with 3 ladies from the Blackpool area cresting from the opposite direction. We stopped and conversed on top for a while. They were intrigued by this LeJoG trip and her husband had just set out this morning on ‘Tower to Tower’ cycle from Blackpool Tower to the Eiffel Tower.

Actually met lots of cyclists today, individually and in groups. Always a wave between members of this tribe! I am baffled by the amount of individual cyclists out on the road in black or almost-black clothing.

Coming near Lancaster my route came in along by the river Lune. In the centre of the city the river is tidal and edged with salt marsh and mudbank exposed at low tide.

Just out of town I arrived on the trail along by the Lancaster Kendal Canal with an impressive new bridge. The Kendal end of this canal is almost all filled in. 

It was getting quite warm now at noon and the cattle were utilising the cooling effect of the canal.

More barges on this canal than the Leeds Liverpool one this morning. Had a bit of banter with the ‘captains’ as I cycled alongside.

Some anglers out along this stretch trying their luck at hooking some bream, they told me.

Just before the town of Milnethorpe I crossed over into Cumbria and it’s mountains looming ahead. Definitely a more rural scene with its stone fences and sheep, I knew that straight out of Milnethorpe was a significant rise ( divided in 3 steps) along country lanes. 100km done at this stage nearly there.

Final approach into Kendal was along the filled-in canal und then up the Main St to the door/arch of my hotel…The Shakespeare Inn. My room (Titania) is in the Croft behind the main building, one of the best accommodations I have had so far. And to make things even better - my bike is beside my bed.

Had a walk around this evening before dinner; the place is so quiet this Bank Holiday evening. It’s clear it’s a tourist town dubbed the Gateway to the Lakes although it is not actually in the Lakes District National Park.

Some of those mountains will need to be dealt with tomorrow.

8 days done out of 16;  I’m almost half-way there. And still enjoying it.

Thank God for the health and thank God for the energy.