Day  16 / 16           Wednesday.   Sept 6.

Thurso to John O Groats.

Distance:   33        (Km) 

Time:  1:47

Average Speed:          18.5. (Km/ hr) 

Ascent:               233 (m). 

Heart Rate:          111 (beats / min). 

Cumulative Distance:           1555 (km) 

Cumulative Ascent :           13,962 (m) 

Punctures so far : 0

Well, the final day. The completion of the project that started in 2019 before Covid.

Being a short day I had a lie-in and could avail of the breakfast in the hotel. Then at 7:30 I cycled down through the streets of Thurso with just a population of around 9,000 down from the days when Dunreay Power Station was in operation. 

It was a dull morning but dry with a south-east wind that was a slight hindrance. Can’t complain about weather conditions over the last 16 days. I moved out onto the open road that was relatively flat, no climb near what Garmin would upgrade to major.

At 8km I was welcomed into Castletown, the Flagstone Village. Inland from here are limestone flagstone quarries that have supplied London, Edinburgh and even Sydney with flagstone paving and used in local railway station architecture. Fields all around Castletown and Thurso are bounded by these flagstones.

 The village was coming to life with kids on their way to the local school. Many signs now for John O Groats with the mileage remaining steadily dropping.

Just out of town I came to the start of the mighty beach that stretches all the way to Dunnet a distance of 4km. I cycled along behind the dunes with caravans and motorhomes availing of flat spaces to park. 

Dunnet Head appeared off to the left 

At 21km I turned right off the A836 onto a quiet but more relaxing road. Grain had been harvested in this area and of course sheep were everywhere. But still there were large tracts of heather-covered Borland.

I wasn’t the only cyclists to opt for this road. I met with 2 gentlemen from Salisbury who were setting out on their 20 day JOGLE (John O Groats to Lands End). Had a roadside chat, I wishing them safe journey and they congratulating me. And spotted others also just setting out on the same adventure.

I rejoined the A836 at Canisbay  and in Canisbay Kirk is the tombstone of the said John de Groat (1568), a Dutchman who operated a ferry here to the Orkneys which are 10km off shore, a collection of 70 islands with just 20 of them inhabited. The Shetlands are further out still…170km to the north-east.

Finally destination appeared in the distance accompanied by a flutter in my tummy. The sight of the pointed roof of The Inn at John O Groats told me I was just there.

The place was quiet enough at this hour of the morning (9:30) yet all the infrastructure of tourism apparent….Tourist Information, kiosks, hotels and new tourist lodges and serviced ares for caravans and motorhomes.

How pleased I was to park the bike up by the iconic signpost…..some bike, my best buddy. The sign is free for all to use not like the corresponding one at Land’s End. Some motorcyclist obliged to take my completion photo in celebration. Project completed but so thankful for the favourable weather conditions all through.

Then off to get my LEJOG LOG stamped at the First /Last kiosk, and picked up another magnet to add to the fridge door.

Can relax now……..and start contemplating the next cycle project.

Train now from Thurso to Glasgow; flight to Dublin; train to Limerick Junction and sure I’m nearly home at that stage.

Thank you all, hope you enjoyed the trip.

Thank God for the health and thank God for the energy.

 Day  15/16           Tuesday.   Sept 5

Crask Inn to Thurso

Distance:        100 (Km) 

Time:    5:33

Average Speed:          18.0.  (Km/ hr) 

Ascent:               957. (m). 

Heart Rate:          108 (beats / min). 

Cumulative Distance:           1522 (km) 

Cumulative Ascent :           13,729 (m) 

Punctures so far : 0

A day with a glorious start (downhill or flat and sunshine) and then up- and - down with overcast and mist.

Dinner last night in the Crask Inn was a communal one…all 6 of us at one table. Three of them (English) were involved in a LeJoG for a charity. Dad, Stephen and son George were doing the cycling ( full trip in 12 days) and Mom was providing support with the motorhome. They were going all the way to John O Groats today and our paths crossed at the 65km mark

When I went out this calm morning to saddle up I was attacked by millions of the tiny midges populating the highlands. They don’t carry disease but are a total nuisance. I had known of this possibility and donned my net, long fingered gloves and leggings……fully covered. When the day had warmed up and with a breeze (25km) I removed all these.

Dull when I started out and crested after a short 1.5 km with the windmills (they’re everywhere up here) and then had a glorious descent for the next 12km to Altnaharra,

The sun had now broken through (7 - 9pm) just a I turned sharp right (east)  at the Altnaharra Hotel to cycle down the shores of Loch Navar. This hotel is known far and wide among anglers.

Loch Navar is 10 km long and quite narrow emptying into the North Sea. With the low sun it was preferable to stop and look back at the beauty.

All this area (Strathnaver) suffered badly in the Highland Clearances of early 19C. The wealthy estate landowners were not making a profit with the old communal farming system; it would make more economic sense to displace the residents and turn the land over to sheep, especially with the arrival of the hardy Great Cheviot sheep from the south. Displaced people moved to small villages on the coast, each with a small plot and were forced to resort to other means (fishing for lobster or herring) to add to their small income.

At Syre I came to the much photographed red corrugated iron church built as a mission church in 1891 to serve the remaining  community on the Sutherland estate.

From this point on the road began to heave and roll right to the end of the day. At 47km I linked up with the A836 but the surface did not improve. It was still a single track road but with a rough verge for passing.

Than at 50km I got my first view of the North Sea at Bettyhill with its magnificent beach. From here to John O Groats I’ll be cycling east generally following the coast.

Any coastal trip is never flat. The road ahead regularly moved inland and rose to cross high ground. I could see the rises ahead and Garmin introduced me to 4 majors, but there were many more just as taxing.

The sky darkened along here and banks of mist moved across the landscape. Luckily enough it never developed into serious rain. And I spotted my first road sign for John O Groats; put up especially for those doing the North Coast 500 (miles). Along here there was a plentiful line of motorhomes and motorcyclists coming against me.

And I moved into the last county on this trip…Caithness.

Ahead through the light mist appeared the 3 reactors of the nuclear station of Dounreay operational there from 1958 till 1994. All decommissioned now but it will take decades.

Just after Reay I turned off to the right on a lesser used road but far superior surface to enter Thurso from the land side. Thurso welcomed me and in no time (at 1pm) I had located my Holborn Hotel.

Glad to be in on the last long day of cycling. All calm now and ready for the final assault on John O Groats tomorrow morning.

Thank God for the health and thank God for the energy.

Day  14 /16           Monday. Sept 4.

Tore to Crask Inn

Distance:        95 (Km) 

Time:     5:35

Average Speed:          17.0.  (Km/ hr) 

Ascent:               847 (m). 

Heart Rate:          106. (beats / min). 

Cumulative Distance:           1422. (km) 

Cumulative Ascent :           12,772 (m) 

Punctures so far : 0

A lovely days cycling in sunshine and favourable wind.

Cold this morning when I got up before sunrise but a nice 10C shortly after I set out.

Retraced my steps to that busy A9 but a cycle track appeared after a short while as I was heading west for a period and into a breeze.

Dingwall on the Cromarty Firth arrived after 13km and Tesco was open but I needed no shopping today.

Just 5km on the mile-long Cromarty Bridge, opened in 1979 appeared on my right along this busy stretch of road. However my route took me off to the left on a quieter road where I could stop and admire my surroundings in the morning sunshine.

Evanton (Baile Eoghain) was beginning to move about as I passed through. Apparently this town was founded by an Alexander Fraser and named after his son, Evan. Out of Evanton I was on a woodland cycle track for a period.

Back at the planning stage I had intended to follow anti-clockwise around the coast through Tain to Bonnar Bridge. But on reflection and advice from a comradai scoile I took the high road involving an extra 200m of ascent. As it turned out it was the much better option. Go raibh maith agat/ Tapa leat, Paddy.

The early part of this road (B9176) was very agricultural especially with grain but no harvesting quite yet. 

The road then entered into trees always rising gradually and snaking around hills ahead. I was now into an area of much heather on both sides.

With 40km done I was at the highest point of this road and had a noble view down to the Dornach Firth Bridge opened in 1991 and saving a 40km road trip by land. Also a lovely view up the length of Dornach Firth.

Down from here I was back on the A836 and into Ardgay (Ard Gaoithe) and also I had left Ross and Cromarty and entered into  Sutherland.

Bonnar Bridge (Droichead Bhanna) came soon after with its own new bridge at the inner part of Dornach Firth and the local anglers hoping for luck in its waters.

Followed the main road out of Bonnar Bridge but shortly I turned off left to view the Falls of Shin (on the river Shin). The main one (Salmon Leap) was impressive but but all along its course the water tumbled. 

With 75 km done I came into Lairg (Luirg……=shin as in shinbone) possibly from the shape of Loch Shin. As I entered , below the generating station, one man was Chieftan of his own isle. Loch Shin is a long narrow lake 27km long.

I followed the A836 as it gently rose and soon it became just a single track road with frequent Passing Points. No signs of habitation along here, just wide open country with trees, heather and water.

Temperatures were well into the 20’s by now and then around one gentle bend the Crask Inn appeared. Glad to be here and in at 2pm.

A grand days cycling, not as tasking as I had anticipated and lovely scenery.

Thank God for the health and thank God for the energy.